Chemical Peel Benefits: The Different Types and Their Effects

You have probably tried conventional peels at home. They will quickly give you smooth and pure skin texture, even after only one application.

Chemical peels go one step further and are more effective in reducing acne scars, pigment spots, enlarged pores and giving the skin a fresh and vigorous appearance that enhances natural beauty.

But what are the most significant chemical peel benefits for the face, and what results should you expect after each type of chemical peel treatment?

Chemical peels explained

Your top layer of skin renews all by itself about every 28 days. Chemical peel treatments can support this process. The formula used in a skin peel not only removes dead cells in the treatment area but also cleanses your pores, stimulates blood circulation, and ensures a radiant appearance. That's why chemical peels belong to every healthy skincare routine.

In brief, chemical peels involve the application of acidic agents to the skin. They are beneficial for skin that has sun damage or thickened surfaces. An acid application can jumpstart collagen production, resulting in a firmer skin texture after the regeneration phase.

What are the benefits of chemical peels?

Chemical peels offer many great results you cannot obtain through other procedures. Here are the main chemical peel benefits:

• Dead skin cells are removed so the peeling ingredients can work intensely.
• By removing dead skin cells, pores will stop clogging, also preventing impurities from developing.
• With the correct formulation of acids, chemical peels can be milder than mechanical peels (rub-off peels, cleaning brushes), making them ideal for sensitive skin types, and those affected by rosacea, as well as people who suffer from inflammatory conditions.
• Most chemical peels for sun damage effectively reduce melasma, blemishes, pigment spots, etc.
• Enlarged pores will return to their original size and appear finer and smaller.
• Fine lines are optically minimized after only one session.
• The lack of dead cells will give your skin a "glow" effect.

Types of professional chemical peels

Light chemical peels: Patients who want fresher, more radiant skin are well advised to use a light peel option that works primarily on the skin's surface. The treatment is usually carried out with fruit acids or glycolic acid (AHA acid).

 With a fruit acid or glycolic acid peel, the top layer of dead skin cells is removed so that the underlying skin cells can regenerate. Skin receives a better blood supply as new layers appear.

In addition, light peel treatments stimulate the formation of new supporting connective tissue. As a result, the skin becomes tighter and firmer and is better able to retain water. A better moisture supply is one of the most significant chemical peel benefits.

Light chemical peel treatments with glycolic acid also have different strengths. Your doctor will determine the best glycolic peel strength prior to treatment. Repeat these chemical peels regularly for a lasting improvement in the skin's appearance.

Medium-depth peels:  Anyone with a deeper skin issue, for example, scars or pigment disorders, should try a chemical peel that affects the dermis. In contrast to the rather superficial method, medium peels also affect the inner layer of the two top layers of the skin.

A medium chemical peel can effectively treat acne scars and irregularities in pigmentation and often remove or greatly minimize impurities and acne.  Medium chemical peels are carried out with trichloroacetic acid (TCA).

A TCA peel can penetrate the skin depending on the acid concentration. A concentration of 10% to 15% of TCA results in superficial peeling of the epidermis. A 15% to 35% TCA solution, on the other hand, penetrates deeper. Your doctor is the only one who can decide on the concentration of TCA, depending on your complexion and the problems that need to be treated.

With a TCA peel, the skin is subjected to what is known as "frosting." The skin turns greyish-white after applying the solution. The pressure, as well as the intensity of the solution, can vary during treatment. The whiter and thicker the "frosting" in the sequence, the greater the effect.

Is a chemical peel safe when using TCA? Even though this substance is generally harmless, there are still some contraindications. Patients with acute inflammation of the skin areas to be treated, such as a herpes infection or a tendency to form proliferating scars called keloids, should not undergo a TCA peel. Pregnant and breastfeeding women should not undergo these medium peels or those who engage in extensive sunbathing.

Deep chemical peels: In some cases, superficial and medium-depth chemical peel procedures are insufficient to achieve the desired effects. Therefore, the deep chemical peeling process can achieve a profound effect even in the deeper layers of the skin.

The most commonly used ingredient for deep peeling treatment is phenol, a potent acid that penetrates the skin's lower layers. Sometimes a single treatment is enough to smooth out deep wrinkles. However, with this comparatively aggressive method, a doctor must determine its suitability for you. Anesthesia is mandatory with a phenol peel.

Is a chemical peel safe when using phenol? The answer is yes if you don't have contraindications such as severe heart disease, liver and kidney problems and insulin-dependent diabetes mellitus. A peeling treatment with phenol is also not recommended during pregnancy and breastfeeding.

In addition, this treatment method is not suitable for darker skin types. Phenol has a lightening effect, so it must never be used on darker skin tones, as it can significantly lighten the entire face.

The different types of acids and their effect

Your skin type plays a vital role in choosing the correct chemical peel procedure and ingredients. Therefore, because they can have a slight, superficial, or medium to deep effect, the acids used for various types of chemical peels can be roughly divided into three categories:

1. Alpha hydroxy acids (AHA)

Alpha-hydroxy acids include fruit acid, lactic acid, or mandelic acid. The size of the acid molecules determines the effectiveness of the chemical peel.

Fruit acids have the smallest molecule size and exfoliate the most thoroughly. On the other hand, lactic acid and mandelic acid have larger molecules and cannot penetrate as deeply into the skin.

Peels that use AHA acids improve uneven skin texture, stimulate collagen production, bind moisture for more freshness and elasticity and reduce dark patches and acne scars. To see an improvement in the complexion, you have to use this method regularly. AHAs are natural acids obtained from food and come in different forms:

• Lactic acid
• Glycolic acid (found in sugar cane)
• Citric acid (from citrus fruits)
• Malic acid (from apples)
• Mandelic acid (from bitter almonds)
• Tartaric acid (from grapes)

2. Beta hydroxy acids (BHA)

BHA acids basically have the same effect as AHA ones. However, they mainly consist of salicylic acid, which has lipophilic properties. This acid will deeply cleanse your skin's pores and free it from blackheads, old sebum, and fat. With regular use, it should even be able to prevent the pores from clogging completely.

Thanks to their anti-inflammatory properties, BHA acids are often milder than fruit acids. So if you have sensitive skin, this variant is better for you. Although the most common form of BHA is salicylic acid, there are also a few derivatives used in chemical peels:

• Betaine salicylate
• Sodium salicylate
• Beta-hydroxybutyric acid
• Willow bark extract
• Tropic acid
• Trethocanic acid

3. Polyhydroxy Acids (PHA)

PHA acids are even more lipophilic than salicylic acid and, at the same time, are superb antioxidants that reduce light sensitivity and can even absorb UV rays. While PHA has practically the same anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties as BHA, it does not penetrate as deeply into the skin. The three most common types of PHAs acid are:

• Gluconolactone
• Galactose
• Lactobionic acid

PHA acids are suitable for sensitive skin and are particularly effective against impurities.

Recovery from each type of chemical peel

After light chemical peels, the skin needs one to seven days to regenerate. The area treated may temporarily be lighter or darker than the surrounding skin.

For medium-depth peels, it takes about 48 hours for the skin to begin peeling, with the process lasting up to seven days. It takes about seven to 14 days for the treated area to recover.

After a deep chemical peel, the skin dies off after about three days. It turns brown, peels, and crusts form. To avoid scars, do not manually remove the crust. After a few weeks, the skin has regenerated.

It usually takes two weeks before you can resume your normal daily life. Skin reddening lasts for about six to eight weeks but can be hidden with proper makeup. After about six months, recovery is complete.

Possible risks and side effects

As with any procedure, a chemical peel treatment carries certain risks and has some contraindications. A chemical peel should not be carried out if you are prone to impaired wound healing, have an acute herpes infection, are pregnant, have oral treatment with vitamin A acid preparations or have undergone a recent cosmetic procedure.

In general, the skin heals well after a chemical peel. Despite all caution, some side effects can occur in rare cases:

• Scarring
• Temporary pigmentation disorders
• Inflammation
• Increased sensitivity

Severe redness and irritation are also common after this treatment. If irritation persists or severe pain occurs, you should consult your doctor.

How to get the most out of chemical peels

Correctly using chemical peels at home, especially for beginners, depends on several factors. Follow these application and aftercare rules for chemical peel treatment to get the most out of the procedure:

• If you have never used acids, start with the lowest concentration (around 2-5% for glycolic acid, 5% PHA) and increase it slowly.
• Start by using chemical peels every third day. After about two to three weeks (depending on your skin's sensitivity), increase the frequency to every other day.
• Your skin will tell you whether daily chemical peeling makes sense; redness or burning is a sign of "too much." In such cases, you can either reduce the concentration or the frequency of use. Daily chemical peels are usually unnecessary unless you use a weak chemical solution.
• With this in mind: watch your skin! If it is irritated, reduce the frequency or concentration of the exfoliating agent immediately. If the skin calms down, start again with the first bullet point.
• Use chemical peels only in the evening.
• Do not combine chemical peels with other potentially irritating products, such as retinol, in the same skincare routine.
• Sun exposure is the number one cause of premature skin aging, so SPF protection is always recommended. An anti-aging care program without a daily application of sun protection is pointless. Regularly using chemical peels will slightly reduce the skin's protection from UV light.

Finding the Best Chemical Peel

You can improve your skin with a chemical peel even without surgical interventions, injections,  lengthy laser therapies and other treatment solutions available at our medical spa to combat wrinkles, enlarged pores or acne.

Chemical peel benefits are numerous and may vary depending on the treatment used, skin type, and aftercare. Before attempting any chemical peel, it is essential to consult your doctor to find out which one is right for your skin. This way, you will avoid the side effects and enjoy the desired long-term impact.

FAQs

How dangerous are superficial peels to use at home?

When using a chemical peel at home, please keep in mind that even a chemical solution contains potent acids. If improper use occurs, permanent skin damage, such as severe chemical burns, irritation, skin discoloration, flaky skin areas, or extreme dryness, can occur. Beginners, or those with skin problems, should consult a professional in advance.

How often can you get a chemical peel?

A new treatment is possible after a few weeks or months, depending on the peel type. In many cases, getting repeated peels are helpful to achieve further improvements in skin conditions, fine lines and wrinkles and other issues. However, in the case of deep peels, a single application should be enough.

 What should be considered after a peeling?

In the first three hours after a chemical peel, ensure that neither water, cosmetics or vitamin A supplement come into contact with the treated area. Avoid sun exposure for at least two weeks after treatment, and apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen of at least 30 SPF or higher. After your initial recovery period, follow up your treatment with skincare products specially formulated with low-concentration glycolic acid to maintain your results.

 Can you combine a peel with other methods?

Combining chemical peels with other treatments is possible and even beneficial for issues like deeper wrinkles. Pretreatment with botulinum toxin (Botox) can be useful when using a peel to smooth out wrinkles. A wrinkle injection after a peel can further improve the result achieved.

When can I go back to my usual activities?

A regeneration period of a few days or up to two weeks is necessary, especially following deep chemical peels. Avoid visits to the sauna and tanning salon per your doctor's recommendation should be avoided for a few weeks. Moreover, following a chemical peel, avoid direct sunlight for at least six months.